Hunting Jackets: Three Classics for Autumn

The classic wool plaid “Pennsylvania Tuxedo” as advertised in November 1949. (Credits: Spartan Forge).

Hunting jackets balance the need to stand out for safety and blend in for stealth. From classic red buffalo check to blaze orange and military-inspired camo, these garments have evolved to meet the demands of different environments.

There are few better places in the world than the auburn-and-gold-leafed forests of October. 

A thermos full of hot coffee and the rustling of a cool breeze represent serene bliss. Whether you’ve come to photograph elusive wildlife or put food on the table with a well-placed shot, chances are that you’ll need some sturdy outerwear.

Generations have relied on specialized hunting jackets to carry whatever is needed on their early morning expeditions.

Cover art for the October 28, 1939 edition of the Saturday Evening Post by Douglass Crockwell. (Credits: ©Once Upon A Time Classic Illustration/Facebook)


Two schools of thought on hunting jackets seemingly contradict each other: to be seen and not be seen. Most animals can’t see the full spectrum of color. Your grandfather probably hunted in a bright red buffalo check wool jacket with matching trousers.

Today, blaze orange is used for safety (from other, more trigger-happy hunters). Certain prey –ducks for example– have incredible eyesight which forces sportsmen not to stick out. This presented an early civilian application for repurposed military camouflage after World War II.

To this end, the commercial version of the venerable frogskin pattern is sometimes called “duck hunter” camo. Other proprietary patterns have since entered the market.

Legendary bow hunter Fred Bear sporting a frogskin-inspired camo jacket. (Credits: ©greatoutdoordinary.com).


Hunting jackets: three different styles

The past century has seen an explosion in the availability and types of materials which commonly include waxed canvas, cotton twill, woolen flannels, and synthetics. Below is a survey of some of the most stylish pieces:

1. J. O. Ballard & Co.

Wearing red coats for hunting is a tradition that goes back centuries (and has debatable origins). One argument is that it makes the wearer more visible and there’s no doubt that this striking coat stands out.

As for the manufacturer, Ballard operated out of New York state from the 1890s until the 1960s–hunting clothing and workwear were its biggest sellers. Many of its tags reference the town of Malone.

Looking at this circa 1940s piece, the pride of Malone shines through with this expertly patterned garment complete with a quilted lining. Heavy twilled wool–in a vivid scarlet–gives it a durability that few modern materials can compete with.

A Malone Coat”, by J.O.Ballard & Co. (Credits: ©The Barn Owl Vintage Good).

2. C. C. Filson Co.

According to Filson’s website, this jacket has a storied history that begins with the company’s founding in 1897.

The name “tin cloth” is a reference to the hard-wearing waxed canvas that forms the jacket’s outer shell. It was originally marketed to lumberjacks but soon found a niche among many outdoorsmen. Over time, various styles and details have changed but this essential coat remains over 120 years later.

This example features some touches that hunters will appreciate–a padded shoulder for coping with firearm recoil, for example. Pockets abound for ammo and other tools. Faux horn buttons and a flannel-trimmed collar complete the classic look and feel of this vintage Filson.

Beautiful hunting jacket by Filson. (Credits: ©ButterworthsVintage/Etsy)

3. Columbia

Gore-Tex. The synthetic wonder that took the 1980s and ‘90s by storm. Its remarkable water- and wind-resistant qualities also made it the perfect material for hunting jackets.

The camo pattern here is a direct descendant of the World War II-era frogskin mentioned above. Since duck hunting season is typically in colder months, an earthy straw-brown color palette makes sense for the winter marsh grasses.

As for Columbia, the 1980s and ‘90s were also very kind to them as they were producing sweet camo jackets, like the one above, and introducing their groundbreaking ski parka.

Specialized elastic pockets for holding shotgun shells. (Credits: ©Vintage Rare USA.)


Specialized garments for hunting have existed for centuries across many cultures.

Modern hunting jackets are a product of technology–from bows and arrows to black powder, to modern cartridge ammunition, the demands for carrying capacity have changed over the years. These jackets have also been adopted by a variety of people for many of the same reasons that hunters covet them.

From photographers and bird watchers to hikers and campers, to be seen or not to be seen–choices abound.

Deer Camp Surpise was painted by artist J. Dwyer for a 1954 Winchester ammunition advertisement. (Credits: ©Winfield Galleries.)


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Zach Liollio

Zach Liollio is a freelance writer, inventor, and metalworker from Charleston, South Carolina, USA. His writing regularly covers fashion and history–especially when it comes to workwear. Early denim and 19th-century manufacturers are topics that he has extensively researched.

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