Five Reasons Why Peacoats Rule Winter

Humphrey Bogart and James Cagney in The Roaring Twenties (1939) (Credits: Warner Bros. and Encyclopedia Britannica.).

Peacoats are the eminent choice for braving winter weather. From the whipping winds and crashing, white-capped surf of the North Atlantic to the icy streets of Chicago, these dependable coats provide unparalleled protection.

The origin of the “pea-” in peacoat is debatable but one plausible explanation stems from “pilot cloth.” This stout, twill woolen fabric was commonly abbreviated “p-cloth.”  In addition, a “pilot coat” could refer to an identical garment in the 19th century—a reference to seagoing pilots who guided ships into harbors and through treacherous passages.

So, the “p,” short for “pilot,” was later spelled out phonetically as “pea.” On a similar note, some attribute the etymology to starting with the Dutch word pijjakker, which refers to a sailor’s coat made from coarse fabric. In either case, there's no connection to the vegetable or the people who fly airplanes.

A recruiting poster from 1917 by Howard Chandler Christy. Credit: Library of Congress. (Credits: ©Library of Congress)

Modern peacoats are cut from a wide palette of colors and patterns, but what about the iconic deep blues? Some historic sources specify the color of pilot cloth as indigo blue, which comprised the wardrobes of sailors and mariners.

Thus, it's no wonder that indigo and “navy” blue–having decked out sailors for centuries–are strongly associated with nautical clothing.

There are many reasons uniformed personnel, including police and sailors, are issued this type of outerwear, but we'll explore five compelling arguments. We hope that you can apply this to your daily wardrobe as well!


1. Smuggle Booze

You thought the first reason would be to stay warm, didn’t you? Well, nothing takes the edge off the biting cold like a quick nip. As Volume 7 of the U.S. Navy publication Our Navy reported in 1913, 

“It happened not so very long ago in the Boston Navy Yard dry-dock that the captain of a big man-of-war [warship] would not allow his men to wear their pea-coats to the Head [bathroom], although in the dead of winter, because a couple of men were pinched coming aboard with “dogs” under their coats. Two men smuggled booze in a pea-coat and 800 men were sent out into the bitter cold, coatless. A few were sent to the hospital with pneumonia and a few more ran away and all were miserable, but what are you going to do? If you let sailors wear pea-coats in winter they are liable to turn the ship into a grog-shop!

All joking aside, you can fit an incredible amount of stuff in the pockets of these coats.

James Carroll, captain of the SS Idaho, got in trouble for smuggling something a little more serious than alcohol: opium. (Credits: ©USNI.org).


2. Stay Warm

This reason feels too obvious to even mention. However, the American poet Barton Sutter summed up why the peacoat is a cold-weather staple in his 2000 book Cold Comfort:

I persuaded a friend of a friend who was in the navy to procure me a peacoat from the PX [post exchange store]. I’d always admired them, and with good reason. I looked sharp in that wool jacket, and it kept me warm through a dozen winters… I can still feel the comfort of the high, arching collar that kept the icy breezes off my neck.

Follow Sutter’s advice above and pop the collar to help shield your neck when it’s extra brisk. Wool Melton does wonders for keeping the weather at bay. Meanwhile, the double-breasted front places an insulating layer of wool between you and the driving wind at all times.

A U.S. Navy sailor wearing a peacoat. (Credits: ©VeteransBreakfastClub.org).


3. Outlast the Seasons

As stated above, the peacoat will serve you well year after year. Wool is simply a wonder material when it comes to durability (and retaining its rich colors).

I recently bought a police surplus peacoat that is over 60 years old. The fabric is still silky smooth and retains its luster even after accumulating decades of dust. The only repair I had to make was to reinforce the threads holding the brass buttons and it’s now ready for another winter. If you find one with moth damage, there are even some fixes for that.

An English World War II-era poster by Charles Wood. (Credits: ©https://www.vam.ac.uk.)


4. Wear It With Whatever

On milder days, layer a white t-shirt with your prized peacoat and you’re set. Going out somewhere nicer? Wear it atop your favorite dress shirt and tie.

Searching for U-boats off the coast of Iceland? Grab a Royal Navy knit sweater and a watch cap. You get the idea. Peacoats are comparable to denim jackets in terms of versatility and timelessness.

The crew at Americana Pipedream have been smashing it with military surplus. A U.S. Navy peacoat pairs well with a German Navy sweater. (Credits: ©americana.pipedream/ Instagram)


5. Armor Yourself

The same hefty wool that gives the garment its warmth can also protect you from physical dangers. Take this anecdote from Commodore Armstrong’s War in China, A.D. 1856-1857, written by Silas Burrows, in which his vessel was attacked by pirates:

My neck would have been cut off by the blow of the cutlass had not the collar of my peacoat which is very thick saved me.” If that’s not a ringing endorsement, I don’t know what is…

Some accounts also consider protection from hail and other rough weather. In short, thick woolens save lives.

Steve McQueen wore a peacoat for his part in The Sand Pebbles (1966). (Credits: ©20th Century Fox)


To learn more about Heritage Style, craftsmanship and menswear fashion, browse our library of anthologies.

Zach Liollio

Zach Liollio is a freelance writer, inventor, and metalworker from Charleston, South Carolina, USA. His writing regularly covers fashion and history–especially when it comes to workwear. Early denim and 19th-century manufacturers are topics that he has extensively researched.

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