American Corduroy: An Unsung Hero of Versatility
The Crompton Mill, of Rhode Island, was reported to be the first mill in the U.S. to produce corduroy and velveteen fabrics starting in the 19th century. This ad dates to 1919. (Credits: Attic Paper.com).
Corduroy is a classic among American fabrics. We retrace its history.
“Around my arms and shoulders I wore a garment familiarly known as a “cord jacket” – a roundabout [short jacket] made of corduroy cloth, such as boys in the humbler ranks of life use to wear…All the wardrobe I ever had would not in one bundle weigh as much in my estimation as that corduroy jacket. I think I may say that I owe my life to it.”
An engraving in The Boy Tar by Reid. Note the short corduroy or “cord” jacket. (Credits: ©Google Books/University of California)
Irish-American novelist Mayne Reid reminisced as an old man about his sailing days—a time when he fastened his cord jacket to a vessel’s signal staff to keep from washing away. Corduroy has a strong attachment, literally and figuratively, to the working class during the Industrial Revolution. In the United States, it evolved into an incredibly versatile fabric used for everything from three-piece suits to jeans and trucker jackets.
The Power Loom arrives
Purists will point out that corduroy is a weave of twilled cotton. “Duroy” refers to a coarse woolen fabric from 18th-century England, which may have lent its name and tough reputation to the cotton fabric. The theory that corduroy came from the French phrase “cord du roi” (“cord of the king”) is refuted by some as a false etymology. Like the origin of its name, there were historical variances in its manufacture and finish. Machine weaving merged traditional materials with innovative manufacturing and standardized processes. The Crompton Company, which sprung from a Rhode Island mill founded in 1807, is purported to be the first mill to commercialize corduroy in America circa 1866.
Corduroy power looms from the 1930s. (Credits: ©Backward Fashion).
An Encyclopedia of Domestic Economy (1855) instead specifies corduroy as a subset of “fustian cloth;” a twilled, stout cotton for men’s clothing that is especially suited to “agricultural people.” The width of the individual cords gives the corduroy its “wale;” the lower the number, the thicker the cord. Finished cloth could be dyed “...olive, leaden [gray drab], or other colours.” It should be noted that these colors can be readily made from natural sources and were popular, inexpensive dyes even before the Industrial Revolution.
So Why Don’t We See More of It?
Indigo denim became the cotton twill of choice in the 1870s, especially following the commercialization of Jacob Davis’ riveted reinforcement patent. “Blue jeans” had won permanence on the stage of American culture. It clad workers well into the following centuries along with plain-woven duck canvas.
John Francis Grant, a rancher who settled Deer Lodge, Montana, is pictured wearing what are likely corduroy trousers circa 1865. (Credits: ©National Park Service).
Denim and duck lend themselves well to mechanized weaving. In 1872, the Scissors and Yardstick described corduroy manufacture involving, “These cords…are waxed, and polished by friction with emery.” The more finishing required, the higher the cost. As for garments, the author comments that it is used, “...only for pantaloons.” Conversely, as this latter source was being printed, denim coats, pantaloons, and overalls were about to fill the shelves of the nation’s dry goods merchants.
A “Super Fly” Legacy
As corduroy moved out of the realm of workwear to make way for denim and canvas, it was fashioned into shooting coats, the trim for outerwear, boy’s play suits, and even men’s suits by the late 1870s. A century later, this rugged material enjoyed a booming renaissance which saw it in numerous catalogs.
Wrangler advertising their corduroy line in 1981. (Credits: ©Stepping Stone Vintage Ads/eBay.)
A myriad of colors became available for everything from semi-formal attire to casual wear. Post-1970s, the velvety material was again given an infusion of new colors and incorporated into shorts and even the Grunge scene. Some examples of corduroy have truly stood out over the decades and below are three favorites.
1. Sweet-Orr
This 1930s-era coat represents Sweet Orr’s tasteful take on the ultra-English Norfolk jacket. Traditionally, these sporting jackets were cut from wool tweed but cotton corduroy allows for almost year-round wear in some climates. Also unlike the classic Norfolks, this one features box pleats only on the back. It’s difficult to tell what the original (i.e. non-distressed) color was, but the missing patch pocket gives us a tantalizing hint.
Beautiful jacket by Sweet Orr. (Credits: ©ApresVousTraditional/Etsy)
2. Boss of the Road
Early motorcycling stuff is already incredibly cool (and collectible). These corduroy breeches–also known as jodhpurs–tell several stories. The jodhpur style was imported from India where it was popular horseback riding attire with the British. In the early 20th century, these roomy pants could be found in many of the world’s armies and the closets of bicyclists and motorists. The buttoned, three-quarter-length leg works well with tall boots or gaiters while the rear pockets have flaps to keep everything in place while on the road. This pair has an interesting detail: the waistband is fastened by a branded brass snap button.
Corduroy pants by Boss of the Road. (Credits: ©Team Time Clothing 1900s)
3. Sears
Talk about evocative–looking at this piece conjures images of round headlight Bronco’s and Clint Eastwood movies. The faux fur collar only adds to the 1970s splendor of this corduroy coat. While there are some unexpected features, the double-arc yoke is indicative of anything with the words “Western Wear” on the tag. Leather-covered buttons tie all of the details together.
Jacket by Sears. (Credits: ©VentureVintageCo/Etsy.)
4. JNCO
Los Angeles-based “Judge None Choose One,” known popularly as JNCO, helped define the fashion of the ‘90s and early Y2K. Corduroy fabric with a wide, chunky wale is a hallmark of the era. Giant patch pockets, wide-cut legs, and just a general “bagginess” make these the perfect complement to your acid-wash jacket.
Pair of pants by JNCO. (Credits: ©antmari_14ygt/eBay.)
A Fabric for Everyone
Corduroy has dual symbolism in America; for 19th-century workmen and for popular culture during the last forty years of the 20th century. From humble earth-tone beginnings, modern corduroys can be found in a dizzying array of garments. Fashion is cyclical even for the most old-fashioned trends as designers seek to pay tribute to blue-collar roots. For its enduring legacy, corduroy has earned every shred of dirt-stained, thread-bare respect.
A Levi’s and Cone Mills collaboration from circa 1970. (Credits: ©Benevento.)
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