Evolution of the U.S. Navy Shawl Collar Jacket: A Military Icon
At the end of the 19th century, the denim industry was booming in the United States, marking a significant moment in both fashion and functional wear. This growth led to a pivotal decision by the US Navy in 1901: the adoption of "Bell Bottom" denim trousers for select troops. This marked the first time denim entered the military ranks, a choice that proved both practical and symbolic.
The deep blue hue of denim mirrored the color of the sea, making it a fitting choice for naval uniforms. Beyond its aesthetic appeal, denim was also recognized for its lightweight nature, affordability, and exceptional durability—qualities ideal for military use. Shortly after, a matching denim shirt was introduced, featuring a simple pull-over design with a shawl collar for added protection against wind and cold, along with two practical pockets.
USN Shawl Collar Shirt from Eric Maggiori's Collection
Close-up of the Shawl Collar Shirt
By 1908, the influence of denim extended to the US Coast Artillery Corps (CAC), which adopted a blue denim uniform, including a shirt with three flap pockets. Initially, in the US Navy, blue denim was primarily worn by personnel in submarines, engine rooms, and machinery spaces. However, during World War I, its use spread across all naval branches, leading to the creation of a new garment: the shawl collar jacket. This jacket was not only easier to don and doff but also gradually replaced the older pull-over shirts. It became a staple in the Navy from the 1930s through the end of World War II.
USN Shawl Collar Jacket from Eric Maggiori's Collection
The historical significance of these garments is evident—while the earlier pull-over shirt is rarer and holds a unique place in history, the shawl collar jacket remains iconic and widely recognized. So, which one captures your interest more: the rare vintage pull-over or the classic shawl collar jacket?
To learn more about American Militaria’s clothing and its history, the Anthology of American Militaria below would be a great addition to your library !
