AVANT

View Original

Shop Coats: Fashion in Factories

This postcard, which probably dates to the 1930s, shows the interior of the Caterpillar factory in Peoria, Illinois. (Credits: hippostcard.com)

It was one of the staples of American factories (and not only) in the last century: the shop coat. A long work coat that protected workers, it has become a sought-after collector's item.

Walk onto any factory floor 70 years ago, and you’d likely find machinists meticulously measuring by hand as they peer through wire-frame safety glasses. Reaching into the pockets of their shop coats, every manner of precision instrument and tool could be kept for ready access.

Oil and thick grease–which covers the surfaces of every machine–is kept at arm’s length by the long cut of this protective outer garment. In the same way that a “barn” coat keeps the dirt and hay dust off its wearer’s shirt, the shop coat serves a similar role in heavy industry.

Blue shop coats in factory. (Credits: ©www.lathes.co.uk.)

Part lab coat and part chore coat, these garments were designed for the production lines and were likewise manufactured on a massive scale. Their origins sprang from the skilled artisans of the prior centuries.

Charles Dickens describes a working class character wearing a “shop-coat” in the serialized novel Bleak House (1852). The association was that of maintaining a place of business.

Grinding a piston in a 1930s automotive machine shop. (Credits: ©theoldmotor.com).

As machinery became more advanced, workwear had to keep pace. A lot of innovation and proprietary designs went into these garments to make them stronger and more efficient.

Whatever pattern or manufacturing methods were used to make these coats, they share some basic similarities: unlined, knee-length patterns with roomy patch pockets. Some even came with belts and many appear to have single vents in the back.


Shop coats: three examples

There are hundreds, if not thousands, of different shop coat models. We've selected three, currently available for purchase on Etsy boutiques.

1. W. M. Finck & Co.

This circa-1930 piece has some truly exquisite details. From the chain-stitched “Chrysler” automotive emblem and owner’s nickname to the adjustable waist belt, this is the quintessential shop coat. It should be no surprise that these are Finck’s.

Denim connoisseurs will recognize the name from their classic overalls and the “Wears Like a Pig’s Nose” tagline. Denim–appearing undyed in this case–completes the rugged nature of this coat. Available here.

Chrysler shop coat (Credits: ©SmallEarthVintage/Etsy).

2. Detroit Overall Manufacturing Co.

Herringbone Twill (HBT) is one of the cotton fabrics that defined the postwar era. Judging by the Ford “crest” logo, this piece dates to the 1950s. The contrasting collar, pocket, and cuff trim really bring the midcentury character of this coat to the forefront. This is an era where the mechanics looked as sharp as the cars that they worked on. 

As for Detroit Overall Manufacturing Company, it makes since that they tailored to mechanics being located in the Motor City. Researching the manufacturer online has yielded relatively little info, however.

They were founded around the turn of the 20th century, sometimes went by “Detroit Overall Co.,” and held a patent for a Combined Patch and Swing Pocket. Available here.

Ford shop coat. (Credits: ©StylerPlyer/Etsy)

3. Carter’s Watch The Wear

This is a more modern evolution of the shop coat, and is perhaps the closest to what uniform suppliers sell today. Simple, functional, and no frills. Plainwoven cotton canvas is the perfect material for this subdued garment.

Snap buttons contrast with the above two examples, along with the fact that the front fasteners are exposed. Also, note the horizontal seam midway down the the skirt.

Was this done to save material, or make it replaceable or removable if it got damaged? Maybe both. Available here.

Beautiful Carter’s coat with metal button. (Credits: ©agetoitvintage/Etsy..)


Perhaps the finest examples of shop coats–that fit the above description–date to the first sixty years of the 20th century. The garment achieved a level of esteem with custom chainstitched embroidery, trim, and other detailed touches.

Collectors of vintage advertising will have as much an appreciation for these coats as vintage clothing enthusiasts. While shop coats still exist in industry, they’ve become much rarer and typically appear in scientific testing laboratories rather than on a factory floor.

Today, it’s simply easier to don and t-shirt, hoodie, or cheap button-down workshirt. Despite this, the style and professional appeal of shop coats make them an attractive option even on the street.

A still from a 1942 training film. (Credits: ©Museum of Our Industrial Heritage/YouTube.)


To learn more about Heritage Style, craftsmanship and menswear fashion, browse our library of anthologies.