Sears catalog from 1937 (Credits: https://the-rite-stuff.com/)

Autumn is a season of transition, both in terms of climate and clothing style. And one piece symbolizes this transition better than any other: the half-zip shirt.

Monday, September 9. Summer already seems a long way off. July and August wardrobes are packed away as the air regains its cool crispness. Long days recede like the outgoing tide while spectacular sunsets mark the beginning of twilight, the end of harvests, and the looming months of winter. In many places, the trees take on a vibrant patchwork of colors that can only be matched by woolen plaids. There is finally a reprieve from the oppressive summer heat.

Few garments capture this spirit of “transition” like the half-zip shirts that saw brief popularity starting in the 1930s. Half-placket flannel work shirts–a rugged staple of laborers from the prior century–received a modern update in the form of zipper fastenings. Zippers weren’t a new invention by this point. However, they were reaching a level of robustness and affordability that workwear manufacturers appreciated. The prewar era saw an explosion in the popularity of zippers on everything from leather jackets to sweaters!

Despite some modern touches, half-plackets were beginning to fade in favor of full-button options. The half-zip garments, while they never disappeared completely, are indicative of an adventurous time for flannel shirts. Collectors happen upon them today and are attracted by the art-deco-styling of the Talon zippers coupled with robust collar and placket details. 

3 examples of half-zip shirts

As autumn begins to curl the leaves of late summer trees, let’s take a look at some exquisite half-zip survivors:

1. Woolrich

It would be impossible to overvalue Woolrich’s impact on the American woolen industry. While they didn’t invent the buffalo check pattern–as it originally came from a Scottish tartan dubbed “Rob Roy”–they made it the embodiment of Pennsylvanian culture. Ready-made clothing was a natural progression once their fabric became established. When it came to half-zip shirts, they created every (modern) outdoorsman’s dream. Vibrant red ensures that the wearer will be seen—in the woods and on the street. Solid red twilled wool had been common for workshirts and overshirts going back to the previous century.

Simple yet bold. The blog Vintage-Haberdashers dates this particular example to the late 1930s based on the label and Talon zipper details. (Credits: ©Vintage-Haberdashers)

2. Utica Duxbak

The “Duxback” name is an appeal to hunters. This brand sprung from a workwear manufacturer founded in Utica, New York in the late 19th century. Though the company has faded into fashion history, they were one of the preeminent makers of sportswear before World War II. Their garments had a reputation for engineered details and quality materials.

The wide placket on this 1930s (or perhaps ‘40s?) Utica Duxbak shirt provides extra sturdiness.
(Credits: ©Rock-A-Hula)

3. J. C. Penney

No workwear list is complete without one of the department store juggernauts of the 1900s. This is also a unique example compared to the above two: note the material. The “suede” in this context refers to a particular, velvety knit. Fawn-brown fabric compliments the brass zipper and tawny collar facings.

A chinstrap closure completes the “workwear” look of this Penney shirt. Like the Utica Duxbak, it would not be out of place in a 1930s or ‘40s catalog. (Credits: ©primetimevtg/eBay).

A comeback almost a century later?

Zippers, synonymous with outwear and “sweater weather,” add an art deco flair to wool shirts. As unsung heroes of the Pre-War era, could they see a comeback almost a century later? Time will tell because options are currently limited. A quality woolen shirt with a half-zip front—and two modestly proportioned chest pockets—is a timeless fit for Fall weather. 

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